Where It All Began
The Flick Rig
Most of the innovative ‘riggy’ anglers I know create their most productive rigs by tweaking other rigs that have been tried and tested for years, which is exactly how I came about using my Flick Rig. It was a few years ago whilst on a French trip with friends David Preston and Matty Grover that I first began to scratch my head with this one. I had been using the standard Stiff hinge rig set up for a while but was unhappy with the fact that a few fish still came adrift whilst playing them. I was almost expecting the fish to fall off during the fight which was ridiculous, so I put my Avid thinking cap on and I came up with the Flick Rig.
You see for me, the most reliable hook I had ever used was a size 6 Long Shank. I had used them for years from many different brands and had relatively few losses. But the Avid LSK’s were on another level when it came to hook holds, sharpness and strength. So, the hook choice for me was a no brainer.
Next was the stiff material to form the ‘chod like’ section. Now I do like this small section to have some memory and retain a small curve, so my choice was the Avid 20lb Captive Stiff Rig Filament. This then attached to a size 11 ring swivel to allow for maximum movement when a carp comes in to contact with the hookbait. The Captive Stiff Rig Filament retains a lovely curve and puts the point of the hook in the perfect position to nail anything that comes near it, which is virtually parallel with the lake bed.
Instead of using the same stiff material for the boom section, I chose to use our 20lb Pin Down Hooklink material. This is a very heavy but also extremely supple hooklink material and one that I have used for years. It’s the perfect choice for using with solid PVA bags the combination of super supple and heavy was just what I was looking for.
I tied one up for each rod, but my initial thoughts were that it looked bulky and a little industrial, but if we don’t try these new ideas that pop in to your head then we’d all be fishing the same way.
I started off with fishing two rods on pop ups and one with a balanced Wafter. The venue that we were fishing was a French club lake and a typical 2-night session on this lake would usually produce two to three carp. By the end of my 48 hours, I had landed well over 20 carp, with both the pop up and wafter set ups producing so many takes, we were seriously surprised by it.
What was also unusual was the hook holds. I cannot remember ever using forceps to unhook carp up until using this rig, but they were certainly required on nearly every fish!
I put this down to the soft boom, which gives the rig more freedom of movement over the stiff rigs that I had been used to using. Also, when casting out, I added either a pop up in PVA mesh or foam which in turn holds the rig up off the lake bed for a few seconds before melting and then the soft but heavy boom section falls to the lake bed in a sort of coil. The amount of movement this allows within the rig is totally unbelievable and in my opinion, this is why the carp are hooked so far back in the mouth. It’s not unusual for the hook to be two or three inches back and absolutely nailed. It really does throw a spanner in the carps works so to speak.
I have since used my much-favoured Flick Rig on a multitude of venues both at home and abroad and absolutely smash them. Tough venues such as Horton Church lake where I only ever get to spend short periods of time and every second counts, I still nab my fair share of the big guns, Including two fish in 24h last year, both over 40lb.
Whenever I attend any of the carp shows and at shop open days I am constantly being asked about the Flick Rig and when I show it to anglers they nearly always look sideways at me, but once they have applied the rig in to their own angling, I get plenty of messages on Facebook saying how their catch rates have dramatically improved because of the Flick Rig. It’s not the nicest looking rig in the world but the results speak for themselves.
The really cool thing about it also is that I will fish this presentation in virtually any situation. If it’s really weedy, I simply lengthen the soft boom section and if I’m on a rock-hard gravel spot, I shorten it back down to suit.
So, if you’re looking for a rig that is far from the run of the mill rigs that you read about nowadays, then please give this one a go. I absolutely promise you that once you give the Flick Rig a fair trial, you will not be at all disappointed. So, get out there and get on the FLICK RIG
Tight lines and Happy Hunting …… Ian Russell
IAN'S WEED FISHING FLICK RIG SETUP
1- Cut off 1 turn of Captive Stiff Rig Filament
2- Tie a knotless knot leaving a long hair
3- Slide a Hookbait swivel onto the hair & form a loop by passing it back through the eye of the hook
4- Blob the tag end with a lighter
5- Tie a Ring Swivel to the opposite end of the Stiff Rig Filament The rig length can vary depending on the situation
6- Ian likes to use a 15mm Pop up for this rig & attaches it to the Hookbait swivel with bait floss
7- Blob the tag end with a lighter
8- For best results the hook point should sit parallel with the lake bed
9- Cut off 12 inches of Pin Down Hooklink for the soft boom section
10- Tie to the ring of the Ring Swivel
11- Tie a loop in the opposite end and slide on an XL Anti Tangle Sleeve
12- Attach the rig to a QC Lead Clip and slide the XL Anti Tangle Sleeve over the QC
TOP TIP Ian uses 2 pop ups in PVA mesh to hold the rig above the weed When the PVA melts the rig falls slowly & rests on top of the weed
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